Scallop vs. Fishtail Setting – Which One is Best for Your Engagement Ring?

When it comes to engagement rings, most people focus on the diamond itself—the cut, clarity, carat, and color. But what truly determines how your diamond looks on the hand, how much it sparkles, and how long it lasts is the setting style.

Among the many setting techniques, two stand out for their elegance and popularity in fine jewelry: the scallop setting and the fishtail setting. At first glance, they may appear similar, but for jewelers, manufacturers, and couples choosing their forever ring, the subtle differences can make a world of impact.

This comprehensive guide will break down everything you need to know about scallop and fishtail settings—their history, design, craftsmanship requirements, pros and cons, maintenance needs, and how to decide which one suits your engagement ring. As a leading diamond jewelry manufacturer, Nakassi has crafted thousands of rings with both styles, so consider this an insider’s perspective into fine jewelry making.

What Are Scallop and Fishtail Settings?

Before comparing, let’s define each setting in detail.

Scallop Setting

The scallop setting features U-shaped cuts beneath each diamond, allowing more light to pass through the stones. Small beads of metal hold the diamonds securely, but from above, the design looks airy and delicate. The effect is a continuous sparkle along the ring’s surface, making it ideal for bands, halos, or accent stones on engagement rings.

Visual Impact: Seamless sparkle, very little visible metal, modern elegance.

Fishtail Setting

The fishtail setting uses V-shaped prongs that taper outward like a fishtail. This creates a zigzag or triangular pattern along the band. The stones are still held securely, but the extra faceting of the metal reflects light, giving the illusion of additional sparkle. The style is especially loved in vintage-inspired jewelry, where details matter.

Visual Impact: Intricate design, antique feel, handcrafted sophistication.

A Short History of Both Settings

• Scallop Setting Origins: The scallop style gained traction in the 20th century when jewelers sought ways to maximize brilliance while minimizing visible metal. With the rise of modern custom jewelry manufacturing, scallop settings became standard in halo rings and pavé bands.
• Fishtail Setting Origins: Fishtail settings are more closely tied to vintage jewelry from the Art Deco and Retro eras. Jewelers in the 1920s and 1930s often used fishtail prongs to add geometric detail to diamond bands. Today, many jewelry manufacturers still produce fishtail settings for clients who love old-world craftsmanship.

Craftsmanship: How They’re Made

Both settings require precision, but they differ in execution.

• Scallop Setting Manufacturing: Jewelers carve U-shaped grooves beneath each diamond. Diamonds are then set with tiny beads raised from the surrounding metal. The precision here lies in ensuring each groove is uniform so the sparkle appears seamless.
• Fishtail Setting Manufacturing: Here, jewelers cut V-shaped prongs into the shank, folding them over the stone edges. The challenge is to balance symmetry—each prong must taper evenly to maintain the “fishtail” look.

As a diamond jewelry manufacturer, Nakassi uses advanced CAD (computer-aided design) combined with hand-finishing to create both styles. This ensures accuracy in the initial design and a handcrafted finish that makes every piece unique.

Pros and Cons of Scallop Settings

Pros:

• Maximum light exposure → more sparkle.
• Minimal visible metal for an airy appearance.
• Works well for modern, sleek engagement ring designs.

Cons:

• Slightly less metal protection for each stone.
• Requires regular maintenance to ensure beads remain tight.

Pros and Cons of Fishtail Settings

Pros:

• Reflective metal surfaces add extra sparkle.
• Vintage-inspired look, ideal for antique-style rings.
• Stronger visual presence of craftsmanship.

Cons:

• Slightly more metal visible compared to scallop.
• Can appear bulkier on thinner bands.
• More difficult to resize without disturbing symmetry.

Scallop vs. Fishtail: A Visual Comparison

Lifestyle Considerations

When helping couples choose between scallop and fishtail, a custom jewelry manufacturer always asks about lifestyle:

• Active Wearers: If you use your hands frequently (healthcare, sports, outdoor work), a fishtail may provide slightly better security.
• Minimalist Tastes: Scallop settings highlight diamonds more and metal less—perfect for those who love a sleek look.
• Vintage Lovers: Fishtail wins for its retro aesthetic, echoing the styles of the 1920s–1940s.

Budget Considerations

From a manufacturing perspective, both settings are comparable in cost, but details matter:

• Scallop: Uses slightly less metal, but requires higher precision in cutting.
• Fishtail: Uses more metal, but may involve additional finishing work.

As a wholesale jewelry supplier, Nakassi often advises retailers that scallop settings are more appealing to buyers who want “bigger sparkle per budget,” while fishtail appeals to niche vintage-inspired markets.

Durability and Maintenance

• Scallop Settings: Diamonds are held with tiny beads. Over time, these may wear and need retightening. Regular professional checks are recommended every 12–18 months.
• Fishtail Settings: V-prongs offer more durability, but resizing a fishtail ring is trickier. The setting may need refinishing to restore symmetry.

Which Works Best for Engagement Rings?

Scallop Setting Advantages for Engagement Rings:

• Seamless sparkle enhances the center diamond.
• Perfect for halos, eternity bands, and modern solitaires.
• Slim, delicate look pairs beautifully with oval or cushion-cut centers.

Fishtail Setting Advantages for Engagement Rings:

• Adds handcrafted character to the ring.
• Works beautifully with Art Deco, vintage, or retro designs.
• Great for brides who love intricate details in their jewelry.

Matching with Diamond Shapes

• Round & Oval Diamonds: Scallop settings maximize brilliance.
• Emerald & Asscher Cuts: Fishtail adds interest to step cuts.
• Princess & Cushion Cuts: Both settings work—scallop for brilliance, fishtail for detail.

Bridal Jewelry Trends 2025: Scallop vs. Fishtail

As a diamond jewelry manufacturer observing U.S. market trends in 2025:

• Scallop settings are dominating TikTok and Instagram engagement ring trends. Brides love the endless sparkle and delicate look.
• Fishtail settings are experiencing a revival among vintage-inspired brides—especially those seeking Art Deco designs.

Retailers report that scallop styles appeal more to Gen Z, while fishtail resonates with millennials looking for timeless craftsmanship.

Why Work with a Trusted Manufacturer

Both settings require precision. Poorly made scallop or fishtail rings may look beautiful at first but won’t hold up over years of daily wear. This is where choosing the right partner matters.

A skilled custom jewelry manufacturing company like Nakassi ensures:

• Consistent stone sizes for even sparkle.
• Secure bead or prong work to prevent stone loss.
• Perfect symmetry in band design.
• Options to customize in 14K, 18K, or platinum.

Whether you’re a retailer sourcing from a diamond jewelry manufacturer or an individual seeking a custom engagement ring, working with experts guarantees long-lasting beauty.

Final Verdict: Which One Should You Choose?

• Choose Scallop Setting if: you love modern brilliance, want minimal metal, and prefer a sleek, elegant ring.
• Choose Fishtail Setting if: you appreciate vintage artistry, want extra metal detail, and love antique-style rings.

At the end of the day, there is no wrong choice—only the choice that fits your style, lifestyle, and love story.

Conclusion: Crafting Your Perfect Engagement Ring

The difference between scallop and fishtail settings may be subtle to the untrained eye, but as every jewelry manufacturer knows, these details shape how a ring feels, sparkles, and lasts over time.

If you’re considering which setting to choose, think carefully about your personal style, the diamond shape you love, and the lifestyle you lead. Both settings are timeless, but the right one will make your diamond shine brighter and carry meaning for decades.

That’s why it’s essential to work with a jewelry partner who understands the balance of design and durability. A manufacturer who invests in craftsmanship, technology, and artistry can help you customize the setting to match your exact vision—whether that means endless scallop sparkle or the timeless character of a fishtail band.

When you choose a partner who blends heritage with innovation, you’re not just buying a ring—you’re investing in a piece that will hold your memories for a lifetime.

Abhishek Singh Rao

Abhishek is a jewelry industry professional with over 5 years of experience in retail jewelry and manufacturing. Having worked closely with global retailers, manufacturers, and designers, he brings deep insights into jewelry trends, materials, and production techniques